May 4th, 2011 | 
Recently I’ve re-tuned and upgraded bellows on my Cambo view camera to DSLR adapter and got this cool video of how tilt and swing movements work in real time. I’ve used Canon 5D MKII to get this video. You’ll see how perceptive and focus plane gets changed. also, in right top corner is a second camera view captured what I did to the view camera. Pretty cool video, IMO 
Take look at “Related posts” below, there are real-life examples of the use of such camera.
~Alex
About The Author: Alex Koloskov
The lighting magician, owner of AKELstudio, Inc.
Hi Alex,
Your site like a guide for me.Just now saw the video of turning the DSLR into tilt and swing view camera and liked it. Ihave a Nikon D 90. Can I convert this one.Where we will get these accessories. Your answer will be helpful.
Regards
Satheesh
Hi Alex! I love your site. So much to learn and you share your knowledge with the world, awesome. I love this video on the swings and tilts. Have watched it a number of times. I have adapted a Cambo Legend to accomodate my 5D markII with bag bellows and an APO Rodagon 90mm enlarging lens. The camera is not flush mounted to the plate where it attaches to the back. There’s probably 30mm from where the camera attaches to the film plane due to the mounting piece. Here are my problems and questions. If I mount the lens on a recessed board will it increase my working distance, camera to subject? I photograph salmon flies, feathers, hook etc. I work shooting straight down. Without resorting to another lens how can I increase my working distance with this lens. I have a $400. investment in that lens so I am desperately trying to make it work. From the tests I’ve run, the lens is very sharp for my purposes. I also have a Caltar 135mm f5.6 in a copal 0 shutter that is ok but not as sharp as the Rodagon. It allows me to get a little further away but I sacrifice sharpness and contrast. What are your thoughts? I have a limited budget now that I’ve spent the $$$ on what I have. Thanks so much. Paul
Such a great article DSLR adapter and got this cool video of how tilt and swing movements work in real time. In which right top corner is a second camera view captured what It did to the view camera. Thanks for sharing this article.
Alex,
I’m a total amateur, but jumping to this head first. I’ve just received a Horseman LE frame which I was able to buy on Ebay for $275, best as I can tell it was a good deal. My intent is to mount a Nikon D3100 on the back of this and start playing. I’ve lots to learn about all things photography and will likely see lots of trial and error.
My first question is this. How do you actually capture the image? You’ve got a shutter button on the camera and a shutter activation on your lens, but the two are totally separated. I’m sure there is a simple concept that I am missing with regards the mechanics of the set up.[img]http://www.flickr.com/photos/55814712@N06/5821795311/in/photostream[/img]
@Don, The simple answer is that you use the shutter on the dslr only. You will see that every view camera lens has a switch to open the shutter. This is how us oldies used to view the image on the groundglass on the back of the camera, where the film holder went. You open the lens wide to get your basic setup. When you have your angle etc you then use the camera movements like Alex does. You choose the widest f stop you can get away with to avoid diffraction. Stop down the lens and shoot your dslr until you get the exposure you like. So basically you never use the shutter in the lens, only the f-stop. Hope this helps, Howard ( England)
Don,
yes, exactly like Howard said (thank you sir for answering, I lost this question)
Also, you can use shutterless lens if you goign to use DSLR: I was using Rodenstock enlargement lenses to get job done: they do not have shutter, only iris. Was a good solution as they cost less than those with shutter.
However, quality won’t much digital lenses, but I guess you are not going to pay $2-$3K for the digital lens at this time.
considering dust – Didn’t you think about incorporating a lens filter (UV od clear protector) right on to the camera mount inside the bellows? – this way you would have camera body enclosed and dust stays in bellows… Or would adding another glass element in front of sensor degrade picture quality too much? (the video is really cool for understanding focal plane shifting and tilting… thanks Alex)
Jan,
It will be hard to do such filter, as it has to be completely sealing camera’s sensor. I went other way, switching to MFDB for a view camera. No problems with dust anymore!:-)
Hi Alex, I did a similar thing last summer, but gave up using the 4×5 because of the dirt that was constantly being sucked into the DSLR body. Are you finding this a problem?
Pat,
Yes, it is a problem for me as well. It gets little bit better after I’ve got newer bellow and cleaned all inside. The self-cleaning feature of camera helps as well, but not 100% of the times. Dust is a big enemy of 35mm DSLR. MF detachable backs is the solution!:-)
Upp expencive, but efective!! Pretty coll video Alex :].
Peter,
Cambo master PC cost me $300, plus some work around to adapt it to work with DSLR. Lens is $200. All used, abut in perfect condition.
I consider it very inexpensive way to build such rig:-)
Wow this is very not expencive at all Alex. However, here in UK unfortunetly is double you paid :]. In USA all prices are just “fun” to spend, here … :]. Anyway excellent depth, amazing how you can shift it all and get in focus, love it!!
This is great! I was looking into getting a cambo x2 pro but the problem was the rear standard does not swing or tilt… same with the horseman vcc pro. most good solutions are usually over $2500. I guess with a little modification, you can use a regular 4×5 and mount a full frame dslr just as long as you center the sensor in the right position.
Thanks for sharing!!!
Utah commercial photographer,
Yeah, I was looking for Cambo x2 as well. But this setup is more flexible and interesting to work with.. Plus, it is heavy:-)
P.S Man, you’ve got a really strange name:-)