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Our objective is to get the light to shine through the shooting surface (and the object placed on it) into the lens and to make sure it does not cause lens glare and is as even across the field as possible. The trick is to use bounced light (portrait people often call this technique \u201cskipping\u201d or \u201cskip\u201d) \u2013 instead of turning the lights towards the camera, we turn them towards some reflective surface<\/i> and use the bounce as the main light source.<\/p>\n
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These are the steps to set it up:<\/p>\n
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Find a large enough reflective surface \u2013 it could be a piece of white fabric, white cardboard or foamcore (this is what I like to use) or anything that is large enough and bright enough to reflect the light. Avoid shiny surfaces \u2013 we are looking for soft, diffused light
Set up two lights \u2013 one on each side of the surface at about the same distance from it and at about the same height on the stand. Point the lights \u201ccriss-cross\u201d (as pictured) so that each light points roughly to the opposite edge of the shooting area. This will allow us to avoid the \u201chot spot\u201d in the center and make the illumination more even across the field. Put the lights at the same power level setting
Take a light reading in the center and closer to one of the corners \u2013 if the difference is more than 1\/2 stop then it is likely that the lights are too close \u2013 pull the lights back a bit, readjust and take another reading.
And that\u2019s really all there is to it \u2013 enjoy your shoot!<\/p>\n
Below is a quick illustration of the complete setup. The whole setup could be easily done in about ten minutes flat and broken down in about the same period of time.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column_inner][\/et_pb_row_inner][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”1_4″][et_pb_sidebar orientation=”right” area=”et_pb_widget_area_4″ _builder_version=”3.17.1″ \/][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section bb_built=”1″ specialty=”off” prev_background_color=”#000000″ next_background_color=”#000000″ _builder_version=”3.19.7″ module_class=”pt_nohave_tag pt_hide_200″ inner_width=”auto” inner_max_width=”none”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”3.19.7″ background_color_gradient_start=”#ffffff” background_color_gradient_end=”#efefef” box_shadow_horizontal=”0px” box_shadow_vertical=”2px” box_shadow_blur=”18px” box_shadow_spread=”0px” width=”80%” max_width=”1080px” global_module=”64053″][et_pb_column type=”3_4″][et_pb_text admin_label=”Only for non-logged and non-pro” global_parent=”64053″ _builder_version=”3.19.7″ custom_padding=”20px||20px|20px” use_background_color_gradient=”on” background_color_gradient_start=”#ffffff” background_color_gradient_end=”#efefef” border_radii=”on|5px|5px|5px|5px” box_shadow_style=”preset1″ custom_margin=”10px|||20px” border_width_all=”1px” border_color_all=”#efefef”]<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.photigy.com\/school\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/if__-63_3139638.png\")
Only for Pro Club Members<\/h2>\n
To access the full tutorial, please sign-up<\/a> or login<\/a> to your Pro Club user account<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=”1_4″][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section bb_built=”1″ specialty=”on” _builder_version=”3.19.7″ prev_background_color=”#000000″ module_class=”pt_tag pt_200″ inner_width=”auto” inner_max_width=”none”][et_pb_column type=”3_4″ specialty_columns=”3″][et_pb_row_inner admin_label=”Row” _builder_version=”3.0.47″][et_pb_column_inner type=”4_4″ saved_specialty_column_type=”3_4″][et_pb_image show_in_lightbox=”on” align=”center” src=”https:\/\/www.photigy.com\/school\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/2-131.jpg” _builder_version=”3.18.4″ \/][et_pb_text _builder_version=”3.18.4″]<\/p>\n As to the shooting surface (the whitish bulky thing clamped to the horses), in this particular instance I used my old trusty scrim, which is basically a sheet of mylar taped to a 24\u00d736 canvas stretcher (that\u2019s why it looks so square). A scrim is a very versatile and handy tool all around the studio and using it as a shooting surface has the added benefit of further softening the light (please keep in mind that it will cut the light by about 1\/2 stop at least). If you don\u2019t have a scrim or prefer to have a completely hard and stable surface (for heavier bottles), then a sheet of plexiglass will work as well (1\/8\u2033 works fine for the smaller objects, 1\/4\u2033 is usually enough for the larger ones).<\/p>\n <\/p>\n So lay the object on top of the surface and let the light shine through it! Happy shooting and remember \u2013 never stop experimenting!<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Technical information<\/strong><\/p>\n Camera:\u00a0Canon 5D Mk II<\/a> Cheers,<\/p>\n
Lens:\u00a0Canon 50mm 1:2.5 Compact Macro<\/a><\/p>\n
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