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How to get the ultimate sharp images in your photography – An introduction to focus stacking, Part 1

How to get the ultimate sharp images in your photography – An introduction to focus stacking, Part 1

Want to learn how to create sharp and stunning images?

Wonder why stopping your lens to f32 never worked right? You’ve heard about focus stacking but never really knew much about it, or were too scared to try?

Well, Vadim Chiline, one of North America’s top jewelry and luxury product photographers will show you the basics in this overview video.

He will show you how to get the most depth of field with your camera of a simple object on white as well as an object sitting on a more complex background.

In Part 2 of this video (available here) , he will attempt to showcase the difference in focus stacking found between Adobe Photoshop and Helicon Focus which are the two most popular solutions to this problem.

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5 responses on "How to get the ultimate sharp images in your photography - An introduction to focus stacking, Part 1"

  1. Nice tutorial, Vadim.

    I would like to comment on your point about not knowing why Method A has blurry edges versus Method B which gives you a shot with cleaner edges. Actually its quite simple. When you are focus stacking, especially using your lens focus ring to get several shots in the stack at different focal points, with every change in focal point, your image angle and scale also changes. Though the change in the image scale may be very subtle, it does change… so as a test, if for example you were to reduce the opacity of each of your images at 50 percent and layer them on top of each other… you would notice that they will not align. When you align all the images at your central focus point, i.e., your main subject, you actually have to scale each of your image ever so slightly to bring them all to the same angle of view.

    Method A does exactly that, WITHOUT cropping out the edges, which then prominently show the misalignment on the edges as a sort of a blur, primarily caused due to scaling of each images independently. Under Method B, the misalignment artifacts are cropped off by the software, which is why you do not see the edge blur, but at the same time, you also see a more compressed and narrower angle of view due to cropping of the image.

    So in other words, whether you crop it yourself using method A or let the software crop it for you under method B, you are still going to loose pixels due to cropping.

    It is an intrinsic feature of focus stacking and cannot be entirely avoided.

    Just my 2 cents.

  2. Great job Vadim! Nicely explained. And yes, Helicon is smooch faster and better than Photoshop it’s almost sad. lol :)

  3. Another very interesting video Vadim! I watch you always with great pleasure, not only are you very good at explaining, you do it with professionalism and lightness at the same time. With you, we learn and laugh too! And it is a beautiful thing!
    Am waiting for second part!

  4. Thanks Dmitry! It will be published on Thursday.

  5. Great tutorial. Looking forward for the second part. Thank you Vadim.

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